Tallow is beef fat that has been gently rendered and strained until it is clean, white, and stable. It was the default frying and pastry fat in Western kitchens for centuries before seed oils took over the shelf. Cooks are rediscovering it for a simple reason: it works.

What it is, exactly

The fat around the kidneys and loins, called suet, makes the highest-grade tallow. Fat trimmed from other cuts renders into a slightly softer, beefier version. Both are made the same way: chop or grind the fat, warm it low and slow until it melts and the water cooks off, then strain out the solids. The cracklings left behind are a cook’s bonus.

Why cooks reach for it

  • High smoke point. Around 400 to 420°F, which makes it steady for searing and frying.
  • Stability. It resists going rancid far better than most liquid oils, so it keeps for months in a cool cupboard.
  • Flavor. A clean tallow is nearly neutral; a beefier render tastes faintly of the animal, which is exactly right for potatoes and onions.
  • Reuse. Good tallow can be strained and used for several rounds of frying.

How to use it

  • Roast potatoes. Parboil, rough them up, and roast in tallow until the edges shatter.
  • Fry. It is excellent for chicken, fish, and doughnuts where you want heat without a heavy oil taste.
  • Pastry. Chilled tallow makes a flaky, savory crust for meat pies.
  • Sear. A spoonful in a hot cast-iron pan gives a steak a deep, even crust.
  • Everyday cooking. Use it anywhere you would use butter or oil and want a higher smoke point.

Getting it, and rendering it at home

Ask your butcher or the beef farmer at the market for suet or kidney fat. It is often cheap or free because most customers do not ask. To render it, chop the fat small, put it in a heavy pot with a splash of water, and hold it at a low simmer for a couple of hours until the liquid is clear and the solids have browned. Strain through a fine sieve, cool, and store in a jar. If you would rather skip the work, a good farm will sell you tallow already rendered.

The bottom line

Tallow is nose-to-tail cooking at its most practical: a byproduct of the beef you already eat, turned into your best frying fat. Buy a jar or render your own, and keep it next to the stove instead of in the back of the cupboard.

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